Courtship and expressions of love among the Hanunoo Mangyan of Southern Mindoro
This Valentine’s Day, the #NationalMuseumPH brings you to the world of magkaibog (courtship) among the Hanunoo Mangyan living in Oriental Mindoro, with their expressions of love through writing and serenading.
Pamtang or exchanging gifts during the courting stage is an important practice among the Hanunoo. Traditionally, the women weave buri baskets while men prepare apugan (bamboo lime containers) and luka (tobacco tube containers) as gifts. What makes these containers special is that men, aside from incising them with geometric designs, would also inscribe a song or personal message before giving it to the women they adore. In response, a woman may answer her suitor/s by writing on the same tube to be given in the next betel exchange.
A young man may also serenade (maglayes) his beloved by playing a traditional ceremonial guitar or violin along with the recitation of the ambahan, the 7-syllable line poetry that is often inscribed on bamboo and other wooden objects. Hanunoo children learn the scripts from their parents and during social gatherings through observation, imitation, and constant practice of inscription of chants and verses in bamboo, wood and even leaves, such as the backbone of a banana leaf.
In the old days, a suitor would cross mountain ranges to visit the woman he adores and verses of the ambahan would also refer to such journeys. Being torn between two lovers is also a dilemma among Hanunoo teenagers, as reflected in these verses:
Kang di magsawilihan I love both of them, they say,
Sa uway sa inwagan the vines inwag and uway.
Ga di ud sa masungnan But you should not say I’m bad,
Ga di ud sa malut-an and no reason to be mad!
Ya pangurog tunya wan You should call it: real, true love.
Ya panadya kumon wan Or this: over and above!
(Postma, 2005: 43)
The Hanunoo script, along with those of the Buhid, Tagbanua and Pala’wan was declared by the National Museum of the Philippines as National Cultural Treasures and inscribed in the Memory of the World Registry of UNESCO in 1999. Projects and programs geared towards the preservation and propagation of these traditional scripts have been launched by the National Museum of the Philippines, the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, the Mangyan Heritage Center, and other government agencies and private institutions.
Ginaw Bilog, a Hanunoo Mangyan from Oriental Mindoro, was the first recipient of the Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan (GAMABA) award conferred by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) for his preservation of the surat Mangyan, or the Mangyan script, and the ambahan. His works are displayed at the Manlilikha ng Bayan Hall in the National Museum of Anthropology in Manila.
The book, Baybayin: Ancient and Traditional Scripts in the Philippines, was also published by the National Museum in 2014 should you wish to know more about the ancient script of the Philippines.
#HanunooMangyan
#Courtship
#Ambahan
#PhilippineTraditionalScript
Text and photos by the NMP Ethnology Division
Special thanks to the Mangyan Heritage Center for their assistance in some local terminologies.
© 2022 National Museum of the Philippines